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Antique Maison Aucoc Paris Diamond Guilloché Enamel 18K Lapel Bow Brooch Watch
ASSAY
CHF 7,973.00
Antique Maison Aucoc Paris Diamond Guilloché Enamel 18K Lapel Bow Brooch Watch
Est. Delivery Between: and
An extraordinary antique Maison Aucoc Paris diamond lapel pocket watch with matching diamond bow brooch, circa late 1800s, featuring a white guilloché enamel dial with blue Arabic numerals and gold floral hour markers, a rose-cut diamond-encrusted bezel and bow brooch set in 18K yellow gold and silver-topped construction, suspended from the brooch via a rose-cut diamond trefoil connector, in excellent condition with original box. Can be worn as a brooch, a pocketwatch, or converted into a pendant. Total weight 21.16 grams.
Product Specifications:
- Item Type: Antique Lapel Pocket Watch with Matching Bow Brooch — Suite
- Maker: Maison Aucoc, Paris
- Era: Late 1800s — Victorian period
- Case Metal: 18K yellow gold with silver-topped (argent sur or) diamond settings
- Movement: Manual wind (antique pocket watch caliber)
- Dial: White guilloché enamel with blue Arabic numerals, gold floral dot hour markers, and gold minute track
- Hands: Gold-tone with red/gilt decorative center pivot
- Bezel: Rose-cut diamond-set circular bezel — full halo coverage
- Crown: Gold fluted crown
- Connector: Rose-cut diamond-set trefoil/quatrefoil link suspending watch from brooch
- Brooch: Rose-cut diamond-set bow with old mine cut center diamond — pin back with gold needle
- Total Weight: 21.16 grams
- Condition: Excellent (9/10, incredibly preserved)
- Includes: Original box
- Style: Victorian antique lapel watch, diamond suite, guilloché enamel, Parisian maker
About Maison Aucoc
Maison Aucoc was one of the most distinguished Parisian fine jewelry and watch ateliers of the 19th century, operating from the Place de la Madeleine and later the Place Vendôme area at the height of the French Second Empire and Belle Époque periods — eras during which Parisian jewelers defined the global standard of luxury for royal courts, aristocrats, and wealthy patrons across Europe and the Americas. The house was founded by Louis Aucoc and continued under successive generations of the family, producing pieces of exceptional gem-setting quality and enamel artistry that were regularly exhibited at the Paris Expositions Universelles and won international recognition for technical excellence. Aucoc's reputation for diamond-set pocket watches and lapel watches was particularly distinguished — the house counted among the foremost Parisian suppliers of gem-set timepieces to the aristocracy during the period when the lapel watch was the definitive expression of feminine luxury and social status. A signed Maison Aucoc piece from the late 1800s is a museum-quality antique that commands serious collector interest both for its historical significance and for the extraordinary craftsmanship of its diamond and enamel work.
Design and Construction
The bow brooch is a masterwork of French rose-cut diamond setting — an open, ribbon-tied bow form densely set with rose-cut diamonds across every surface of the silver-topped gold framework, with an old mine cut diamond at the central knot that provides additional brilliance at the visual focal point. The bow's gold needle pin back allows it to be worn on a lapel, décolletage, or bodice as a standalone brooch, with the lapel watch suspended below through a hinged gold bail that swivels for naturalistic movement. The trefoil connector link between brooch and watch is itself fully set with rose-cut diamonds, continuing the diamond coverage seamlessly from brooch to bezel. The circular watch bezel carries a continuous halo of rose-cut diamonds around its full circumference, framing the white guilloché enamel dial — its surface engine-turned in a fine radiating crosshatch pattern that creates a luminous, light-refracting texture beneath the white enamel coating. Blue Arabic numerals in an elegant Victorian typeface mark all 12 hour positions, and gold floral dot markers punctuate the minute track, completing a dial of extraordinary refinement that represents the highest standard of Parisian enamel watchmaking at its most accomplished.
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